Story Japan 4th April

 It's a Wrap

One more adventure. We all went to Ueno park.  This time in sunshine.  What a difference a day makes!  There were blue tarps spread everywhere under the trees for people to sit and have a drink or a picnic.  It was so beautiful- the contrasting blue against the white blossoms.   Their petals were already starting to flutter down - a sign that this beauty does not last long - so let's enjoy. The word was out - everyone was there, tourists and locals alike.

A long last day saw us all at the airport in one piece.  Phew. We did it. We were all early in fact.

Plenty of time, but, yikes.  Don had his Swiss Army Knife in his bag. He received the full attention of the airport policeman - who used all his cop equipment.  Don was not tazerred, but the policeman did call for back up and measured the blade with the ruler. He made notes in his notebook and studied Don's passport very closely.  And I cannot talk, I took roasted peanuts in my bag to Brisbanw that I had forgotten, whoops.   Our son calls this an international incident. One more silly thing, I  managed to walk 2,500 steps while still in Brisbane airport. The queues were long and winding.

This trip has been such a surprise.  Firstly, the thought, care and organization that Lyle has generously poured into this trip has been astounding.  Thank you, Lyle. Secondly,  the group has been such fun.  We got on well together.  I miss you already.  Our group had a death and a birth.  And lots of laughs, and great conversations. 

Thirdly, Japan, itself!  What can you hope to discover about a place in 18 days?  We packed in so many incredible experiences.   Thanks, for your passion, patience and enthusiasm, Lyle. 

David Brooks asks the question about cosmopolitan people 

"What are they like?  

They put themselves in unfamiliar situations. They are enthusiastic about novelty. The journalist Adam Hochschild once wrote: “When I’m in a country radically different from my own, I notice much more. It is as if I’ve taken a mind-altering drug that allows me to see things I would normally miss. I feel much more alive."  

David Brooks, New York Times, 3rd April.

 .............We feel much more alive.

Story Japan 3rd April

 A slow start out of the blocks today. 

Miserable weather and crazy architecture awaits.  Tackling the subway again. But with more confidence, today. Firstly, there were very, very posh shops, including Luis Vuiton with two fine looking young gentlemen whose sole job it was to open the two big doors. Now I could watch that all day.

Omotesando Street

We wandered down the crazy, busy street which featured many locals promenading. As well as heaps of tourists all under umbrellas.

It was shock after shock. Not least "No Sexual Services" in the shop window.

The first of the remarkable cafes  was a samoid cafe, then cat cafe, pig cafe and cappiburra and meerkat. I'm not sure about that last one.

We went down a side street, we were cold damp and a bit weary and had the nicest coffee and apple pie. Denise and Elio joined us.

Back together in our group.  It was still chilly and damp.. We kept walking down crazy Street and some outfits were gobsmacking. There were baby dolls and really camp guys.

At the end, we crossed over and into the huge park, Meiji Jingu gardens.  Notably there wide, wide pathways. At one point there barrels from Burgundy on one side and rice barrels on the other - symbolising the union between Burgundy and Tokyo.   We wandered on to an enormous temple complex.  There was a beautiful inner garden with a large lake, a teahouse and an iris grove.

Meanwhile, almost all of us found a great little Hawaiin restaurant for a bite to eat. 

This is the place.. down below the restaurant is a beautiful antique shop where Meran sneakily purchased a gift for Lyle, right under Lyle's nose. Meanwhile, Marita was ushering Lyle away.  Lyle tells it differently.

Some people went to the shopping street. We went to Ueno Park. I'd learnt about Ueno Park/Coen in my Japanese lessons. So, up the staircase we went with Di.  At this level was a famous pop music duo playing on stage. They sounded great. They must have been beloved and very popular, everyone knew the words and were doing the actions, too.  Then up the next staircase we went.  

WOW!. What a surprise!  

Here, at last, were the Sakura in all there glory.  We had been waiting the entire holiday for a show like this.  Firstly, a nod to the statue of the great man, Saigō Takamori, and his trusty dog.  I like this statue, it wasn't too pompous. There was a lightness and joy about it.  There aren't too many good sculptures of dogs in the world.

The Sakura display was literally heavenly. It transported everyone who saw it. Cute red lanterns were strung along the streets which intensified the impact of the white canopy of cherry blossoms. It was still cold and miserable,  but there were smiles everywhere.

We had been invited to travel the end of shopping street to the Don Quixote,  but we were sidetracked to a little bar, just a counter on the footpath, really.  A beer.  I like Japanese beer.  So glad it's calorie-free, tee hee.

We bravely made our own way home on the train to Kanda station - What a triumph! Thanks, Don, the navigator.  The public transport is quite logical it's actually me that's not.

An evening meal for eight? 

A small group of us ventured into the food lane near our hotel.  Small group?  More like a prowling pack looking for food without a booking.  After the first knock-back, we decided to break up into two groups. So four of us - Noelene, Wayne, Don and I  went to a Chinese restaurant.  What a feast! Two gyoza dishes, eggplant, and a chicken dish.

Back home to our hotel.   I am getting the hang of this Japan caper. And  we only have one more night.

Story Japan 31st March

 As I write, I am seeing snow directly out our train  window.

We are travelling to Takayama by train - the last leg of our travels today,  on a more rickerty train.  However, we are getting a readout, in real time, as to what is powering the train - either engine, battery or motor. A truly hybrid train. There is snow everywhere, now.  We are in very steep country .  I can't see the top of the mountains from here.  There are still plenty of trees.  It looks as though it's a metre deep.  There were racing rivers visible from the train which are a beautiful arctic mint colour.  Very exciting to see from the comfort of the train carriage. 

Meanwhile back to the story.  It was a very easy start to the day. A late breakast and we even had time for a walk to the local shrine. Interestingly, Lyle tells us the large gate structure is the important part- being Dutch Christian,  Japenese and Chinese  architectural elements. Just goes to show

Buddhist?  and Shinto? -  people can get along and respect each others' heritage. The temple gardens were a delight and included a pretty lake with stone and wooden bridges and cascades and obelisks. All of this right in the heart of town. 

We are underway again, bags packed and onto bueses and taxis, to the station.  There was even plenty of time for a coffee and a chat. Then it's JR Rail pass and onto the platform again. Three trains. number three, mentioned above was a bit of drama.  We had 13 minutes to change trains, sounds like a generous amount of time, but by the time we all got off the train, figured out whether we needed the JR pass and went up two floors, we were running/scurrying to this little train at the far end of the platform. It wasn't pretty. I lost a few tyre treads off my port - they went flying in all directions.

There was even some doubt at first whether we all, in fact, got on board.  Alas yes. We made it. I guess the drama made the scenery all the more enjoyable.

We arrived in Takayama,and checked into the hotel.  It is a great hotel.  Thanks, Lyle.

We settled in for half an hour and we were dispatched again under the care of the chivalrous  Sir Peter.  He led us around the old town and gave good directions for returning home.  Very characteristic, little old buildings with deep gutters directly in front and narrow streets.  These deep gutters meant that there was nowhere for me to lean to rest my weary legs.  So I gave up and went home, only to meet Lyle.

She persuaded me to turn around.  I'm glad because I  tried Sake for the first time. The brewery had tricky sampling arrangement -  for $1.00 you put into a machine you got a wee cup to keep and a sample of one sake. .  Then it was a $1.00 token for each subsequent sample.  My choice tasted like lighter fluid so I chucked it.  My second choice, delicious, was that Japanese citrus Uuzi.  Yum

I left early after that to sleep it off.  Don and I had dinner in an Isakaya "restaurant".  Though they told us it wasn't  a restaurant. Shoes off. We were shown into a little room just for us with our own table and a sliding door - a bit like a James Bond movie.

We ordered off the screen always tricky.  We had a lovely light meal. Home, then in the cold.  But first, Don needed milk first.  Tomorrow might, very well, be cold.

Story Japan 2nd April

 On the move - the last big haul - Takayama to Tokyo by trains and Subway.

It had everything, mystery, drama, comedy, romance. We been well drilled in the publuc transport system like a squad.  Everybody on - count the stops - everybody off and assemble immediately for a head count. Three train trips later and one subway.  Then Shock! Horror!  We came up one person short.  Uh Oh.  Our fellow traveller was lost in  the Tokyo rail system.  She was MIA for more than 3 hours.  

Meanwhile the celebratory Farewell Dinner was underway.  We were settled in a tiny restaurant all together.  We met Xavier, our host.  He was a former student of Jim's. Lyle devised a trivia quiz and  when each person answered a question correctly??? We were each presented with our own carefully thought out gift..Don got an owl.  Very apt. I got a beautiful golden bell in the shape of an orb, because I m a golden girl.

What a delicious meal.  Nine courses came out, and sake and plum wine. Some interesting little appetisers were on a long narrow boat, an octopus salad with the most finely sliced octopus. We were filling up and the courses kept coming. 

What a night and, amazingly, it was Lyle 's shout.  Thanks so much Lyle.

Story Japan 1st April

 A Day of Contrasts

I believe it is snowing outside our lovely hotel this morning.  No snow on the ground, but we watch it hit the surface with a splat

Downstairs for a great breakfast. A late start because it is so cold outside we tweaked the timetable. Indoors first, outdoors later.

Taxis to the museum of modern art. Wow, what a building:- brutal and big on the outside, but sparkling and grand in the inside. There is something special about being in a great building.  I remember feeling that way in St Paul's in London. I digress.  Inside this museum, it is so spacious. The windows are 2 or 3 storeys high. There are huge marble columns and shiny marble floors.  And that is just the entry.  I climbed the beautiful staircase, which gives onto the "taa dah" foyer of the exhibits.  There  is an extraordinary, tall, Lallique glass fountain, that, at times, sprinkles like rain. It is comprised of four pale purple statues. At the bottom is a large "saucer"- up above is the upside-down umbrella that does the  sprinkling.  This fountain was only rediscovered in 1980 in a building site in Paris. It's a miracle that it even survived. It is made of glass.  It was from the 1925 Paris Expo.  It is a magnificent centrepiece. Then onto the glass art exhibition.   The first section describes the "Art Nouveau" art movement.  The pieces themselves are displayed  to perfection. The rooms are actually quite dark. Each piece is in a cabinet, some had four tiny spotlights.  Others  were lit from underneath.  All had a downlight.  They were works of art - not only did the colours tell a story, but so did the form.  

Part two was the Art Deco Glass

This was a post WWI movement. 

Once again, the setting and the lighting showed these pieces to great effect. Some were perfume bottles designed specially for a french perfume, like a signature.

Next, we had a morning tea in a very formal restaurant within the museum.  On our way there, we spied the sign for the residences.  People actually live there.  I looked down that halllway and saw an enormous spherical floral arrangement bigger than a metre across. There were  hot and cold running staff. Crikey.  What must it cost to live there?

We were shouted our elegant morning tea. Thanks, Lyle.

We set off on foot towards the old village, Hida No Sato. On the way were some cute shops.  We actually bought something.  There was snow about, but, at the same time, tiny little bulbs were budding. They looked like crocuses. Yellow and purple.

Then the famous old village - snapshot of an older way of life.  It occupied a large piece of land.  Located on a hill, it had views out over town and to the surrounding countryside. There was a pretty lake and a waterwheel. Don went up to see silk makers and the silkworms.

It is a very popular spot.  Despite the weather visitors kept arriving.  Before we left we visited the wood carver.  He had a collection of birds on display.  Don showed him a picture of the tawny frogmouth, that he carved.

Back on a local bus to get to the hotel, but first we had to let passengers disembark. Somehow fifty people got off.  It was like a clown car.....they just kept coming.

We had an Onsen bath to look forward to. The hotel supplied a little basket with Italian soft drink.  We had a seated shower first, then AHH Luxury.. 

Six of us enjoyed a curry for dinner at the Nepalese place.  Lots of fun and an easy walk home to the luxury of the Mercure.  Night night

Story Japan 19-20th March

 With Ann Caroline Lear Japan 2025 tour!!!! First day out and about, after pretty easy flight a night in Narita airport hotel then the fast train as far south as you can go! Kagoshima! 

Ibusuki Sand bath! Stuff 'ALL'  you are wearing in a locker don a robe and thongs, take a small towel with you, then down to the beach. Lay in a shallow pit while an attendant shovels the local hot (55c) black sand over you. By the allocated 10 minutes  you are pretty warm with a few extra hot spots! Back for a shower then head back to Kagoyama  invigorated!!!! On a "special" train which commerates a local legend. As if things weren't hot enough......Off to the local volcano tomorrow!

Story Japan 21st March

 Don's note

With Ann Caroline Lear second day around Kagoshima took us to the statue of Saigo Takamori who instigated the western industrialisation of Japan. Up the hill to get our a look over the city and Sakurajima volcano. Shiroyama Park where the first foundary in Japan was set up. On the ferry to the volcano bus trip "Shiroyama View"  around the island. Absolutely packed couldn't see a thing!  Went to the local public foot bath for a dip. Entertained by some young acrobats having fun in the park then the  ferry back.

Story Japan 22nd March

 With Ann Caroline Lear second day around Kagoshima took us to the statue of Saigō Takamori who instigated the western industrialisation of Japan. Up the hill to get our a look over the city and Sakurajima volcano. Shiroyama Park where the first foundary in Japan was set up. On the ferry to the volcano bus trip "Shiroyama View"  around the island. Absolutely packed couldn't see a thing!  Went to the local public foot bath for a dip. Entertained by local acrobats having fun in the park where we dipped our feet, before the  ferry back.

Don's note

Story Japan 23rd March

 With Ann Caroline Lear 

Nagasaki 

8:15 start for Nagasaki. Paused at the station for Ann to be crowned ‘Queen’ for the day. The rest of the time she is just a ‘Princess’. Two trains later we were in time for lunch at the station. The local football team ‘ V-Varen Nagasaki’ were having a high end cake stall to raise funds for the club on game day. Plenty of people wearing jerseys. 

Piled our bags up at the hotel set off walking to the 26 martyr’s museum and monument

 https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/26_Martyrs_of_Japan

Down the hill, tram to the ‘Peace Park’ and museum, back to the hotel to checkin and have a welcome drink. The APA Nagasaki ekimae just happens to have an Irish Pub as part of the establishment. 

Later in the afternoon we headed for the ‘ Nagasaki Ropeway’  (cable car) by local bus. It has been an interesting learning experience to catch public transport here with plenty of blunders and laughs along the way. Fortunately we have a pretty laid back touring group of 19 who don’t mind a bit of friendly banter along the way. Up to the trig point and observatory while the sun was close to setting. 

Back to the Irish Pub for dinner! Well that was the plan! Half the area was taken up with a wedding (about 30) only three staff doing bar, catering and cooking . After an hour and a half  of having fun with and listening to the groom’s speech  we were informed our ‘Shepherd’s pie’ order had been burnt and there was no other to be had!  We pulled up stumps went to the local 7/11 for some chicken dumplings, boiled rice and a bag of salad.

(Ann) A more leisurely start to the day. 

Western breakfast or Japanese breakfast? that was the question.  Not much difference says Don. 

Our all-day public transport pass served us well, all day.

Budhist temples, with stone architecture and characteristic gardens, oldest stone bridge. The beautiful Glover Gardens high above the dock, where we stayed for about an hour. .  It includes a well preserved house and garden where Glover, the Scotsman and his beautiful Japanese wife and family lived.  He was a friend of Puccini. The composer was so taken by Glover's wife that he based "Madame Butterfly" on her.

We wandered down to the start of Chinatown and got in line for a table at a big restaurant. It had a magnificent view of the harbour, but we queued for more than an hour.. We ate the famous local noodle dish. 

Then on the tram again to Chinatown proper.  We were on the lookout for replacement glasses(mine had broken). I bought a black sesame ice cream (the principle reason Don came to Japan)

Then another tram fiasco.  We got word that there had been an accident between a tram and bus (at our feĺow travellers stop it turns out) and that there would be a delay.  So we took another tram, and then another and another. We met the rest of the group at the doorstep of the hotel.

Dinner on our own. We set out in the back streets of our very own neighbourhood. A bit daunting, but we were lucky with our choice. Ah salad. We chose Nagasaki salad and dumplings, like gyoza. We didn't dare go into the place next door, where the sign said :-

"we don't speak English. No children. Every customer smokes"

Story Japan 25th March

 Don's note 

To Okayama with a leisurely visit to the local Korakuen gardens. Beautifully kept but still feeling the effects of the winter. The structure and detail were clearly evident. Ann managed to have a chat with a few of the local graduating young women in ceremonial dress celebrating there and had them continually giggling behind their hands (seems to be a trait here).

A delicious Italian meal at the Cucina.

.

Story Japan 26th March

Don's note

Day trip from Okayama to Miyajima island (Itsukushima) and Hiroshima.

Quite a short ferry ride to the island (closer than Magnetic to Townsville), past quite a few runs of oysters along the way. Had few hours to wander and take in the area. Managed to avoid being harassed by the deer roaming, scavenging from tourists. Each area of Japan has its Own specialty dishes and treats.

Back on the ferry and train and off to Hiroshima. The park and museum has been renewed over recent years and the museum has some confronting photos and exhibits.

Back to the station for dinner and a gigantic Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki.

(Layers of fried vegetables, meat, seafood, noodles, and eggs top a thin flour pancake - should have shared one.

Japan Story 27th March

 Leaving Okayama. A pleasant little city. It was a tricky maneuvere, though. We had to pack an overnight bag because we would be without our luggage for a night.

Our main suitcases were left at the desk to be picked and delivered tomorrow night.

We took the tram to the station and needed two bullet trains to reach Osaka. But first breakfast in the station today. The French cafe was our choice again. Then up onto the platform. Two short journeys.

Hemiji Castle - one of the most picturesque 

We left our heavy backpacks in the locker and headed for the bus to the castle. It is very old and enormous. It is surrounded by a mote and a huge, high stone wall that's angled back and substantial grounds. There is a direct line of site to the castle from the station. To access the castle required quite a long walk through the grounds. Finally inside the main building. It was comprised of nine floors. At each level we could see, ever increasingly, the countryside for miles. The staircases were very steep. The rooms were mostly empty. However the views from the windows were extraordinary. Our experience of the castle made it clear that the castle was a military fortess, strategically located on top of a hill.  

As well it was a symbol of the power of the feudal lord who lived there. If you squint your eyes, metaphorically, you can imagine the life the castle afforded all it's residents. It must have been a small city unto itself. Today, however 2025, It was crowded with viditors from all over the world.  

We bravely caught the bus back to the station, by ourselves, and retrieved our backpacks from the lockers.

Onto Osaka by train

Now this is a mega city. We arrived and went down into the tube station and caught that train to the shopping precinct. We were cautioned that it would be scarily, crowded on the metro. We succeeded. Phew, no problem. Out onto the street, it was very busy. We are in the shopping precinct with mega laneways seemingly in every direction that resemble sideshow alley at the Ekka. These lanes are like giant arcades. In between, There is shopping street and cooking street. However, there are wide and spacious piazzas and broad streets. 

People EVERYWHERE.

We walked as far as the canal. Quite a long way. We all did a little shopping. There is almost nowhere to sit down in Japan.

So teenagers aren't hanging around, just chilling. Everyone has somewhere to go. 

Meanwhile we were glad to be heading for the subway to our hotel. This time it seemed that there were too many people, for us to get in. Luckily, the majority got off, presumably to do shopping.  

Our hotel is located in the station precinct of Tennoji station. It is a great hotel - Miyaka City Osaka hotel. Shiny new and comfortable. Oh, and a view.

Japan Story 28th March

 Early start? No problem.

Onto the platform JR National Railpass works a treat. We are using it all the time. We took the fast train to Kyoto. Changed to the subway system to kentoji. Whoops the train we caught was going the wrong way. Three treasures await us 

Firstly, Kinkaku-Ji Zen Temple, the golden pavlion and I do mean golden. Set amongst the most beautiful temperate Japanese gardens. We enjoyed a bowl of green tea and a tiny sugar cake in the tea house gardens. We were well-advised to come early, and it paid off. Thanks Lyle, because we had many vantage points from which take photographs of the shrine. It is set in a small lake which has minute islands with trees. So its like a fairytale. All the gardens are manicured by fellows with small millet? brooms. They were even brushing the gravel out from under the rock wall edges. Lyle looked up the pretty flowering shrub we had seen everywhere. Pieris Japonica, a Thunbergia, I think.

Then we travelled to the next treasure - Ryoanji Temple - A lovely warm walk for some. I took a cab. While I waited for the walkers I noted all the different accents and languages - visitors from all over the world. The beautiful gardens lead up to the temple proper and for the first time "off with our shoes". Of course, this procedure was logical and well run. I am fascinated by how things work, the trains, the shops etc:- How it would be possible to persuade people of all abilities to take off shoes? They provide walls of shelving for our shoes with a wooden platform in front of it. Just had to remember where I put my own. Meanwhile, a rock garden a real one. This one is so old, others copied it. So it's the one.  

It is truly a quiet contemplative place. There's a vibe.

The building has deep verandahs where we were permitted to walk. We could see each room.. peaceful and seriously minimalistic.

Then we took a turn around the garden. The path took us past the prettiest restaurant. It was on the edge of the lake surrounded by bamboo. However, he and I shared our bento box lunch on a beautiful park bench. Whoops again. Don spotted the "no food or drink" sign, all too late.  

Next everyone piled into cabs this time. To the jewel-in-the-crown castle. Nijo-Jo So old and incredibly well preserved. The whole package - mote, walls, grounds and buildings. We hightailed up to the south east watch tower, Tonan Sumi-yaguea- at the far corner of the grounds - once we had a sustaining snack and coffee first. Whoopsie, the bean soup we ordered is sweet.

Sure enough the views from the tower were far and wide, good for defence - a coolish job in winter for the guards, I'll bet.

Next a weeping cherry in full gorious bloom.

There was a bit maintenance work going on. So we were not able to fully see the magnificent gateways. These indicate status.

Nimom-goten Palace

The palace itself is really six connected buildings. The biggest is the reception room where the Shogun holds court. People are sat according to their rank all well-spaced and magnificently dressed and that's just the men. I happen to know this because there were statues of these people in costume and seated accordingly. All the rooms have gorgeous, golden screens with images of either tigers, trees or bamboo. The walls seem to glow, a golden glow. It is fabric, but I bet there's real gold in the mix.

The corridors of this palace are all connected, too and this is a long, magic walk. The construction of the floor has resulted in the strangest thing. The Nightingale corridor sings like a bird when you take a step upon it. It is a sprung floor and the nails underneath squeak against the metal struts and it sounds, for all the world, like birds whistling. I'll put that forward at home as a building project for Don to tackle.

Dinner in the fabulous Kyoto station. A sky garden with 360 degree views of the city and surrounds. We went up many escalators to reach the top and quite a few young fellows were running up. It must be a thing - Shades of "Rocky". As well, there is a gigantic staircase which tells a story in lights.  It has to be seen, to be believed. The weather had turned very cold and the wind had whipped up. So we went down to B1. We found a cute little sit-down place to eat. We shared a tasting plate and then Taa Daa a shaved ice "mountain".